Nairobi - The city in the sun
OVERVIEW
Nairobi, capital of Kenya, is East Africa’s largest city and an ultra modern creation. It houses a population of 3 million. The city is cosmopolitan, colorful, bustling, and vibrant, complete with safari-sellers, vendors, markets, an exciting nightlife, buzzing music scene, and restaurants galore. Its central business district has towering buildings and upscale joints and it's a great place to tune into modern urban African life.
Nairobi is Kenya’s administrative, communications, and economic center and the trade and distribution center for a productive agricultural area specializing in coffee, tea, and cattle. The city has a large industrial complex that manufactures automobiles, food products, beverages, construction materials, cigarettes, chemicals, textiles, clothing, glass, and furniture. It is the base for many international organizations such as the United Nations Environment Program, World Health Organization, multinational businesses, and foreign embassies.
The city is one of the few in Africa that offer good bookshops, restaurants, efficient banks, and an efficient telecommunications system. It is a place where you can get things done with the minimum amount of fuss in a timely fashion.
While on one hand, Nairobi prides itself in its westernization, on the other it is grappling with the burden of expanding slums. Kibera, one of the city’s 200 slums, houses close to a million people. According to Alioune Badiane, the director of the UN Human Settlements Programme (UN-Habitat) regional office for Africa and the Arab States, situated in Nairobi, the slum problem in Nairobi is partly a legacy of the colonial policy of racial segregation. The government and city authorities continue to neglect the slum dwellers, and so community-based organizations have emerged to fill the vacuum. These organizations are helping residents cope with the problem of perpetual lack of most basic amenities, including water, sanitation, and waste collection facilities. Through these organizations, the residents hope to improve general conditions in their crowded, poverty-stricken neighborhoods.
HISTORY
Nairobi was founded in 1899 on the site of a waterhole of the pastoral Masai as a railhead camp on the Mombasa-Uganda line. (Nairobi in Masai means “place of cool water.”) The city became a substantial town by 1900 and the center of the prosperous European-dominated highlands farming area. Five years later it succeeded Mombasa as the capital of the British East Africa Protectorate, a colony of the British Empire in the late 19th and early 20th century.
People flooded into the city, and it grew from a population of 9,000 in 1920 to 80,000 in 1950. This influx of people, many of them white settlers, caused friction with the local Masai and Kikuyu tribes. The white settlers established plantations and large agricultural farms in the area. Nairobi was officially declared a city in 1954.
After World War II, the Kikuyu people's frustration boiled over and the Mau Mau rebellion took place. The rebellion lasted from 1952 to 1960 and was a major factor in Kenyan independence from the British, achieved in 1963. Kenya’s first president was Jomo Kenyatta, a member of the Kikuyu who was jailed by British forces during the uprising.
After independence, Nairobi grew rapidly. Today it's the largest city between Cairo and Johannesburg and has evolved into an international center with a spirit of its own.
CLIMATE
Although Nairobi is only 90 miles (145 km) south of the equator, it has a fairly moderate climate, largely because of its high altitude (5,500 ft/1,680 m). The summer months are sunny and warm without blistering temperatures, while winters are mild to cool, with very chilly evenings. Rainfall is also moderate, the wettest part of the year being late summer to autumn, when cloudy, drizzly days are common.
Climate Chart
|
Jan |
Feb |
Mar |
Apr |
May |
Jun |
Jul |
Aug |
Sep |
Oct |
Nov |
Dec |
Rainfall (mm) |
55 |
50 |
77 |
198 |
159 |
40 |
15 |
19 |
25 |
50 |
129 |
85 |
Rainfall (inches) |
2.2 |
2.0 |
3.0 |
7.8 |
6.3 |
1.6 |
0.6 |
0.7 |
1.0 |
2.0 |
5.1 |
3.3 |
Min Temp (°C) |
11.6 |
12 |
13 |
14 |
13 |
11 |
10 |
10.7 |
11 |
12 |
13 |
12 |
Max Temp (°C) |
25 |
26 |
26 |
24 |
22 |
21 |
21 |
21 |
24 |
25 |
23 |
23 |
Min Temp (°F) |
53 |
54 |
56 |
57 |
56 |
53 |
51 |
51 |
52 |
54 |
56 |
54 |
Max Temp (°F) |
77 |
79 |
78 |
74 |
72 |
70 |
69 |
70 |
75 |
77 |
74 |
74 |
ARCHITECTURE
Nairobi grew around the central business district. It takes a rectangular shape, around the Uhuru Highway, Haille Selasse Avenue, Moi Avenue and University Way. It includes many of Nairobi's important buildings, including the City Hall and Parliament Building. The city square is also located within the perimeter.
A feature of the central business district that strikes foreign tourists the most is the skyline. Nairobi's skyline has been compared to many Asian and American cities. This is due to a construction boom after independence, and another construction boom in the late 1990s and early 2000s. Most of the skyscrapers in this region are the headquarters of businesses and corporations, such as I&M.
In 2006, a large beautification project took place in the central business district, as the city prepared to host the 2006 Afri-Cities summit. Iconic buildings such as the Kenyatta International Conference Centre had their exteriors cleaned and repainted. The district is bordered to the southwest by Nairobi's largest park: Uhuru Park and Central Park. The Mombasa to Kampala railway runs to the southeast of the district.
Top 20 Tallest Buildings in Nairobi
Rank |
Name |
Height |
Year |
01. |
Times Tower |
140 m |
1997 |
02. |
Kenyatta International Conference Center |
105 m |
1974 |
03. |
NSSF Building |
103 m |
1993 |
04. |
I & M Bank Tower |
99 m |
2001 |
05. |
Government Office Conference Hall |
98 m |
1972 |
06. |
Provincial Headquarters |
84 m |
1982 |
07. |
Cooperative Bank House |
83 m |
1981 |
08. |
National Bank House |
82 m |
1976 |
09. |
Anniversary Towers |
80 m |
1992 |
10. |
Lonrho House |
80 m |
1990 |
11. |
Reinsurance Plaza |
77 m |
1982 |
12. |
Uchumi House |
71 m |
1972 |
13. |
ICEA Building |
69 m |
1981 |
14. |
International House |
66 m |
1971 |
15. |
Hilton Hotel |
61 m |
1969 |
16. |
Electricity House |
60 m |
1974 |
17. |
City Hall Annex |
60 m |
1980 |
18. |
Treasury Building |
48 m |
1980 |
19. |
Union Towers |
48 m |
1977 |
20. |
Hotel 680 |
47 m |
1972 |
PLACES OF INTEREST
Museums
- Kenya National Archives, art-related library/archives, located on Tom Mboya Street
- Karen Blixen's House and Museum, house of the author of Out of Africa, located on Karen Road
- National Museum, located on Museum Road
- Railway Museum, located on Uhuru Highway
Government buildings
- Parliament House
- Nairobi City Hall
- American Embassy Memorial Garden
- Government Office Conference Hall
- Treasury Building
Places of worship
- Jamia Mosque
- Catholic Holy Family Cathedral
- All Saints Cathedral
- Swami Narain Temple
- Khoja Mosque
Parks and wildlife
- Uhuru Park
- Central Park
- Nairobi Arboretum
- Butterfly Africa
- Nairobi National Park
- David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust
- Langata Giraffe Center
Art, crafts, and theater
- Kenya National Theatre
- Ramoma Rahimtulla Museum of Modern Art
- Mzizi Arts Centre
- Go-Down Arts Centre
- Gallery Watatu
- Utamaduni
- African Heritage House
- Bomas of Kenya
Skyscrapers
- Kenyatta International Conference Center
- NSSF Building
- I&M Bank Tower
- New Central Bank Tower
TRANSPORTATION
Air
The Jomo Kenyatta International Airport is the largest and busiest airport in East and Central Africa. It serves as a transit hub for major airlines as well as the gateway for visitors to Africa's treasured game parks, cultural heritage, scenic landscapes and business opportunities. The airport also serves as a major cargo center for both inbound and outbound goods. The airport is situated in Nairobi, 20 minutes from the central business district and is served by shuttle services, taxis and other commuter services. Most major hotels in Nairobi also have their stations at the arrival terminal, which may provide transport for their guests and other services. The facilities at the airport include a bank and foreign exchange bureau, telephones and fax, medical aid, a bar and restaurant, duty-free shops selling curios, a post office, tourist information, and hotel reservations. There are facilities for persons with disabilities, but passengers should advise their airline in advance of any special needs.
Wilson Airport is a small, busy airport to the west of Nairobi. It handles small aircraft that generally operate within Kenya.
Kenya Airways operates international and domestic services out of Jomo Kenyatta International Airport, with daily flights to Mombasa plus flights to Eldoret, Kisumu (on the shore of Lake Victoria), Lamu Island, Lockichogio, and Malindi. Airkenya offers scheduled flights from Nairobi to Amboseli, Kiwayu, Lamu, Malindi, Masai Mara, Mombasa, Nanyuki, and Samburu, as well as services to several national parks and Kilimanjaro in Tanzania. Safarilink offers similar services out of Wilson Airport. Regional Air also operates from Nairobi. Private airlines operate light aircraft to small airstrips. Planes can be chartered and are useful for transport into game parks.
Rail
Kenya is serviced by a single railway system running from Mombasa through Nairobi to Uganda, with branches to Nanyuki, Kitale and Kisumu. Another branch connects Kenya to Tanzania through to Taveta. Train services operate between Voi and Moshi (Tanzania) and between Nairobi and Kampala (Uganda). The seaport of Mombasa is linked to surrounding areas of Kenya and Uganda by rail.
Kenya Railways Corporation runs passenger trains between Mombasa and Nairobi; trains generally leave in the evening and arrive the following morning after a journey of around 13 to 14 hours. There are also branches connecting Taveta and Kisumu to the passenger network. There is a daily train in each direction on the Nairobi-Kisumu route, and also an overnight service (travel time–approximately 14 hours). There is also a service through to Kampala.
Trains are sometimes delayed, but most of the rolling stock is modern and comfortable, and most trains have restaurant cars. There are three classes: first class is excellent, with two-berth compartments, wardrobe, etc; second class is more basic but comfortable; third is basic. In first and second class, doors can be locked from the inside but when leaving the compartment valuables should not be left unattended. The dining-car service on the Nairobi-Mombasa route is very highly regarded. Sleeping compartments should be booked in advance. Sexes are separated in first and second class. Children under three years of age travel free. Children between three and 15 years of age pay half fare. Tickets can be booked at Nairobi railway station or through local travel agencies.
Matatu
The most popular form of public transport in Nairobi is the matatu, usually a Nissan minibus. It operates on set routes, collecting as many passengers as possible en route. The passengers board and disembark wherever and whenever they choose. The fare is low and loud music goes along with the ride. These vehicles are unregulated and usually overcrowded and have become part of Kenyan culture.
Bus
Long-distance buses connect Nairobi with numerous destinations in the region—for example, Arusha and Dar es Salaam in Tanzania, Eldoret, Kisimu, Malindi, Kitale, Nakuru, Mombasa, and Kampala in Uganda. Buses leave from outside each company’s office. Coastline Safaris buses are the most comfortable and expensive. Akamba is the biggest private bus company in the country and has an extensive network. It is not the cheapest but is the safest and most reliable. The government-owned Kenya Bus Services (KBS) is a large, reliable operator, cheaper than Akamba but with slower buses. Easy Coach is a reliable new service with buses serving western Kenya destinations. Among other long-distance bus companies are Busscar, Eldoret Express, Falcon, and Mombasa Metropolitan Bus Services.
Local bus services in Nairobi operate on set routes and schedules through the city streets. The local buses are run by the Kenyan Bus Services. Most buses pass through downtown, but the main terminus is on Uyoma Street. Metro Shuttle and private City Hopper services are also available to the Jomo Kenyatta International Airport and Karen, passing the Karen Blixen Museum.
Taxis
Taxis are widely available and convenient, usually congregated in the street around hotels and areas frequented by tourists. Taxis are not metered and the fare should be agreed upon before departure. Nairobi taxis are marked with a yellow line along the side of the vehicle, or they are, surprisingly, large black London taxis. The better taxi companies have more modern vehicles which can be booked by telephone. Three-wheel auto-rickshaws, or Indonesian-style ‘tuk-tuks,’ are good for short rides and are available on Kenyatta Avenue.
Chart showing approximate travel time in hours and minutes
From Nairobi to |
By Air |
By Road |
By Rail |
Kisumu |
1.05 |
7.00 |
14.00 |
Mombasa |
1.00 |
6.00 |
14.00 |
Nakuru |
0.30 |
3.00 |
5.00 |
Eldoret |
1.15 |
7.00 |
9.00 |
FOOD AND DRINK
Restaurants
Ranalo(Kosewe), Next to Nation Centre
This restaurant is a must if you want to sample the best luo dishes. Very good service, very good decor/ambience
Chic Joint, Utalii Street
New bar-restaurant that serves excellent Kenyan/Swahili food
Malindi Dishes, Gaberone Road
A great little Swahili canteen
Clean daytime cafeteria that serves special breakfast
Dancing Spoon Café and Wine Bar, Mama Ngina Street
Bright canteen that serves good western and Kenyan food
Beneve Coffee House, corner of Standard and Koinange Streets
Small self-service chop shop that serves stews, curries, fish and chips, and samosas at low prices
Tropez, Banda Street
Modern restaurant serving fast grills, curries, chicken, and lunchtime buffet
Seasons Restaurant, Aga Khan Walk
Cafeteria serving Kenya and western favorites
Nyama Choma Place, Milimani Road
Highly rated by Kenyans. Serves delicious nyama Choma (barbecued meat), national dish in Kenya.
Haandi, Ring Road Westlands
Widely regarded as the best Indian restaurant in Kenya
Chowpaty Pure Vegetarian Restaurant, Westlands Road
Great Indian vegetarian restaurant servings lots of South Indian food
Supreme Restaurant, River Road
Indian restaurant serving excellent Punjabi food and superb fruit juices
Plaza Café, Loita Street
Indian restaurant specializes in Mughlai food; also serves African dishes
Taj, Taveta Road
Best for basic, cheap Indian food
Blue Nile Ethiopian Restaurant, Hurlingham
Has a unique character and perfect for a complete African communal eating experience
Addis Ababa Restaurant, Westlands
Good authentic Ethiopian food and live music
Trattoria, corner of Wabera and Kaunda Streets
Offers excellent Italian food, from pizzas to pasta to desserts
Taverna, Westlands
Good Italian fare, with lots of pasta and seafood
Panda Chinese restaurant, Kaunda Street
Classy Asian restaurant with excellent Chinese food
Hong Kong Restaurant, Koinange Street
For cheap, good Chinese food
Bangkok Chinese Restaurant, Parklands Road
Not a Thai restaurant, serves only Chinese
Tanager Bar and Restaurant, Kaunda Street
Cheap, simple Chinese-African eatery
China Jiangsu Restaurant, Westlands Road
Stylish rooftop restaurant serving good Chinese food
Siam Thai, Muthithi Road
Has extensive menu of Thai food and very good reputation
Restaurant Akasaka, Standard Street
Excellent Japanese restaurant that serves udon noodles, tempura, teriyaki, sushi, miso soup, and many other Japanese dishes
Furusato Japanese Restaurant, Karuna Road
Great Japanese food in a stylish setting
Fiesta Restaurant and Bar, Koinange Street
For a fine selection of international dishes
Alan Bobbe’s Bistro, Koinange Street
Superb French bistro
Thorn Tree Café, Kimathi Street
Serves a good mix of food, especially a big breakfast
Tamarind Restaurant, Aga Khan Walk
Nairobi’s best seafood restaurant
Porterhouse Restaurant, Mama Ngina Street
Excellent place for steaks
Phoenician Restaurant, Karuna Road
Garden restaurant serving Lebanese food
Kengeles Bar and Restaurant, Koinange Street
Serves a wide variety of food: burgers, grills, Mexican, African, Indonesian, and Asian, and buffet
Carnivore, off Langata Road
Most famous for nyama choma
Talisman, Ngong Road
Serves imaginative international food, cakes, and desserts
Rusty Nail, Dagoretti Road
Pavilion restaurant that serves a variety of dishes
Rainforest Café, Mombasa Road
Good for sandwiches and buffets
Horseman, Langata Road
Three restaurants in one—one serves game meat, the second pizzas, and the third Chinese, Kenyan, and Indian food
Karen Blixen Coffee Garden, Karen Road
Excellent food and friendly pub atmosphere
Cafés
Nairobi Java House, Mama Ngina Street
Fantastic coffee house with plenty of cakes and other treats
Kahawa, Kaunda Street
Great for breakfast
Dormans Café, Mama Ngina Street
For good coffee and impressive selection of teas
Oleander Café, Nairobi Hill
Small café on the terrace
Café 21, Kenyatta Avenue
Good for a full meal or a quick bite
Food Courts
Sarit Center, Parklands Road
For Italian, Chinese, African, and Thai food
Village Market, Limuru Road
For Italian, Turkish, German, Thai, Japanese, and seafood
Yaya Center, Hurlingham
Has reasonable selection of cafes and kiosks, with great Indian eatery
Etouch, corner of Moi Ave and Mama Ngina Street
Has fast food joints like Chicken Inn, Creamy Inn, and Pizza Inn
SHOPPING
Arts and crafts
Sarit Centre
A topclass shopping complex located in the leafy Westlands, Nairobi.
Yaya Centre
One of Nairobi's poshest shopping complexes, located in Hurlingham.
Village Market, Gigiri
Shopping center with cinema, bowling alley, pool hall, mini golf, and children’s playground
City Market, Muindi Mbingu Street
City’s souvenir market; has dozens of stalls selling wood carvings, drums, spears, Masai jewelry and clothing
Gallery Watatu, Standard Street
For fine Kenyan art
Spinners Web, Westlands
Sells carpets, wall hangings, ceramics, wooden bowls, baskets and clothing
Triangle Curios Market, Westlands
Lots of genuine tribal objects such as wrist knives and wooden headrests
Maasai Market, Limiru Road
Busy markets held every Tuesday; sell jewelry, baskets, and Masai crafts
Undugu Craft Shop, Westlands
For good quality crafts
Banana Box, Westlands
Sells traditional objects with modern uses
ENTERTAINMENT AND ACTIVITIES
Bookshops and Libraries
Book Villa, Standard Street
Bookpoint, Moi Avenue
Bookstop, Hurlingham
Text Book Centre, Westlands and Kijabe Street
Westland Sundries Bookshop, Downtown and Westlands
Kenya National Library, Ngong Road
McMillan Memorial Library, Banda Street
Clubs
Impala Club, Ngong Road
Private sports club
Nairobi Club, Ngong Road
Private sports Club
Nairobi Sailing and Sub Aqua Club, Langata Road
Mountain Club of Kenya
Organizes climbing and trekking weekends
Nature Kenya, off Museum Hill Road
Organizes variety of local outings
Internet Cafés
AGX, Loita Street
Avant Garde e-centre, Kaunda Street
Capital Realtime, Standard Street
Dallas Communications, Mama Ngina Street
Easy Surf, Westlands
Cinema halls
Nu Metro Cinema, Gigiri
Fox Cineplex, Westlands
20th Century Cinema, Mama Ngina Street
Kenya Cinema, Moi Avenue
Nairobi Cinema, Aga Khan Walk
Odeon, Latema Road
Cameo Cinema, Kenyatta Avenue
Theatre
Professional Theatre, Parliament Road
Kenya National Theatre, Harry Thuku Road
Nightclubs and Bars
Casablanca, Lenana Road
Hip Moroccan-style lounge bar
Zanze Bar, Moi Avenue
Friendly bar with pool tables, dance floor, and cheap beer
Taco Bell, Moi Avenue
Popular bar that overlooks the street
Taco’s, Kimathi Street
Like Taco Bell, but smaller
Hornbill Pub, Tom Mboya Street
Large, dark, but friendly bar
Jockey Pub, Mama Ngina Street
Cosy English-style hostelry
Roast House, Kilome Street
Green bar-restaurant
Gypsy’s Bar, Woodvale Grove
Popular bar that attracts a mixed crowd
Bar Code, Ring Road
Modern lounge bar
Soho’s, Parklands Road
Lively, popular bar that pulls smart crowd
Nyanza House Club, Shiekh Karume Road
Earthy local hangout
Klub House, Parklands Road
Good place to party until late
Pavement, Westlands
Bar on the ground level and big, modern club in the basement
New Florida, Koinange Road
Big, rowdy club
Florida 2000, Moi Avenue
Big dancing den
Club Soundd, Kaunda Street
Central night spot
Monte Carlo Club, Accra Road
Earthy local hangout
Simba Saloon, off Langata Road
Open air bar and nightclub
Black Cotton, Langata Road Biggest, messiest expat party
Outside Inn, Karen Road
Semi-urban barn of a bar
ACCOMMODATION
Nairobi has a wide range of accommodation to suit all budgets, tastes and interests. There is a full range of hotels, guesthouses, serviced apartments, hostels, homestays and more.
Type of accommodation |
City Centre |
Milimani and Nairobi Hill |
Westlands and Parklands |
Karen and Langata |
Low-end |
Iqbal Hotel |
Upper Hill Campsite |
Hillcrest Hotel |
Giraffe Manor |
Mid-range |
Kenya Comfort Hotel |
Heron Hotel |
Safari Park Hotel |
|
High-end |
Nairobi Serena Hotel
|
|

